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Restaurant Review October 19, 2007
 
Restaurant Review: Dantes, Food Inferno
By Yasha Levine Browse author Email
 
 

DANTES, a new pan-ethnic restaurant that recently opened across the street from Papa John's, has the atmosphere of one of those upper-class grill cafes you find in Tiburon or San Francisco's Marina District. You know the type--the kind of place with outside sidewalk seating, open grill kitchens, friendly line cooks, young white waiters in crisp clean white shirts, long wine lists and gourmet America-style menus. Where rich white baby boomers go to with their parents and kids for Sunday brunch. Dantes does a good job of replicating feel, even down to the prices. A recent Sunday lunch with dessert and alcohol came out to $50 a head. Dantes is characteristic of what problem with Moscow's restaurant scene. The food would be good enough to come back for, if it wasn't so freakin' expensive. Like most other Moscow restaurants, Dantes' price-to-quality ratio is all out of whack. Case-in-point: a plate assorted dim sum dumplings cost 300 rubles. That's about $12 for five pieces of cheap Chinese peasant finger food. To make matters worse, they were kept out on the counter for a few minutes too long and were dried out by the time they got the table. On the positive side, the duck chow mein (300 r) was just like Chinese noodles should be: greasy, heavy and thick with gooey MSG. Their beef rice noodles (350r), fried and thick with smoky sauce, were equally good. The house red (140r) was well balanced and well priced. The whole meal was served with bread fresh out of the oven. We recommend you forgo the dessert.

Adress: Ulitsa Myasnitskaya 13-3

M: Chisty Prudy

Tel.: 621-4688

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Levine
Browse author
Yasha Levine is an editor at The eXile. You can contact him at yasha@exile.ru
 
 
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