Mankind's only alternative 4   DEC.   21  
Mankind's only alternative
War Nerd RSS
MAIN  RUSSIA  WAR NERD   [SIC!]  BAR-DAK  THE VAULT  ABOUT US  RSS
 
 
EXILE BLOGS

The Fall of The eXile For all those wondering what the "Save The eXile Fundrasier" banner is all about, here it is as simply as it can be phrased: The eXile is shutting down.
June 11, 2008 in eXile Blog

War Nerd: War of the Babies in Taki's Magazine The War Nerd talks about babies, the greatest weapon of the 20th century.
May 28, 2008 in eXile Blog

Kids, Meet Your President A website for Russian kids to learn all about President Medvedev's passion for school, sports and family.
May 22, 2008 in eXile Blog

Cellphone Democracy Cam If this girl was exposed to Jeffersonian democracy...
May 20, 2008 in Face Control

More Classy B&W Dyev Photos Yet another hot Russian babe imitating the Catpower look...
May 20, 2008 in Face Control

Proof That Genetic Memory Is Real! Sure, the Ottomans shut down the Istanbul Slavic slave markets centuries ago...
May 15, 2008 in Face Control

Russia's Orthodox Church Youth Outreach Program The priest is going, "Father Sansei is very impressed with grasshopper Sasha’s...
May 15, 2008 in Face Control

More Classy B&W Club Photos w/Russian Dyevs We took the Pepsi Challenge here...
May 15, 2008 in Face Control

Blogs RSS feed

Restaurant Review August 25, 2006
 
Cherkizovsky’s Da Bomb!
By Jake Rudnitsky Browse author Email
 
 

With the eXile's infallible instinct for the scoop, Yasha and I were hanging out at Cherkizovsky Rynok the day before a couple of xenophobic fanatics blew it up. That's right, last Sunday, Yasha and I headed to the rynkok's Novaya Evrazia section to get a taste of the best Asian food in Moscow.

Novaya Evrazia might ring a bell to any Moscow Times reader - the MT mistakenly announced that the bomb exploded in that section. But I'm happy to announce that my friend Mohammad the murse-merchant told me that Novaya Evrazia was untouched. The cafes I'm about to talk about didn't even think to close in the aftermath of the attacks.

Lest I get sidetracked by politics, I want to bring it back to the food. Yasha and I stumbled on it when murse-hunting, and ate so well that we couldn't stay away. Just one look at the clientele is enough to know it's the real thing. The Vietnamese cafe we tried first doesn't even have a menu. It exists only to feed the dozens of Vietnamese sweatshop workers packed in by twos and threes into their 3 by 5 foot cubbyholes. And they don't even pay: free food is the only perk in their job. You, like them, have a choice of pho or beef. The soup's for the workers and the beef's for the slave masters. For 300 rubles, we sprung for a worker's meal and each got a giant bowl of pho and a Baltika. No doubt they thought they were gouging us.

Like all simple peasant food, the key to a great tasting pho is freshness. There's nothing terribly complex about it. All it takes is sprouts, chives, basil, lime, some beef scraps, hoisin sauce and spicy red peppers. They got the broth and noodles all prepared, so all they have to do is throw the veggies in and, voila, the meal's ready. Yasha decided to change his order about a minute after the Vietnamese slave disappeared into the kitchen. Nope, too slow. 30 seconds later, the food was ready. Not so hard, right? Yet in Moscow, you have to go out to a Vietnamese slave market to get it. Go figure.

There's also killer Chinese in Novaya Evrazia that we chowed on last Sunday. As far as we could tell, the Chinese place has no name, but if you ask around you'll get pointed to it.

Our first dish here was the "pelmeni" (R100). When they brought them out, I was ready to be disappointed, as they looked just like real pelmeni. I thought they were trying to pass off Smak as dumplings. It also looked like the language barrier would be a problem. Even getting soy sauce was an ordeal. The only staff that spoke any Russian was our 17-year-old Armenian waitress. But she didn't speak Chinese, so she was as hopeless as we were in communicating our desires to the kitchen.

But one bite of the pelmeni allayed our fears. These were real juicy pork wontons. After that, a parade of delicious dishes came out: fried tofu and veggies (ask them to make it spicy) for R100, beef on a skillet for R280, a noodle soup for R80. Granted, the meat in the noodle soup was all cartilage, but the noodles were homemade and flavor unbeatable. Everything was great except the Chinese vodka we were drinking. We'd even splurged by going one step up from the vodka that came in a plastic bag, but it still had a samogon edge to it. At R20 a shot, we should've known.

For R700 we ate and drank enough for four people. No way that the occasional bombing is enough to keep us from going back. Other than Starlite and Silvers, it's just about the only ethnic food in Moscow that's both by the people and for the people.

SHARE:  Del.icio.us  Digg  My Web  Facebook  Reddit
 
 
FROM THE VAULT

Horsing Around :

Felgenhauer-Gate: Moscow Times editor drops the censored stamp on its own Russian dissident :

Death Pornomatic Map of Russia : Your visual guide to DP. See who's dying, where and how!
Cold War Bullshit
Cold Bullshit : Ten Piles of "New Cold War" Crap
 

 
 
 
LATEST ARTICLES

Save The eXile: The War Nerd Calls Mayday
Editorial
The future of The eXile is in your hands! We're holding a fundraiser to save the paper, and your soul. Tune in to Gary Brecher's urgent request for reinforcements and donate as much as you can. If you don't, we'll be overrun and wiped off the face of the earth, forever.

Scanning Moscow’s Traffic Cops
Automotive Section
We’re happy to introduce a new column in which we publish Moscow’s raw radio communications, courtesy of a Russian amateur radio enthusiast. This issue, eXile readers are given a peek into the secret conversations of Moscow’s traffic police, the notorious "GAIshniki."

Eleven Years of Threats: The eXile's Incredible Journey
Feature Story By The eXile
Good Night, and Bad Luck: In a nation terrorized by its own government, one newspaper dared to fart in its face. Get out your hankies, cuz we’re taking a look back at the impossible crises we overcame.

Your Letters
[SIC!]
Russia's freedom-loving free market martyr Mikhail Khodorkovsky answers some of this week's letters, and he's got nothing but praise for President Medvedev.

Clubbing Adventures Through Time
Club Review By Dmitriy Babooshka
eXile club reviewer Babooshka takes a trip through time with the ghost of Moscow clubbing past, present and future, and true to form, gets laid in the process.

The Fortnight Spin
Bardak Calendar By Jared Lindquist
Jared comes out with yet another roundup of upcoming bardak sessions.

Your Letters
[SIC!]
Richard Gere tackles this week's letters. Now reformed, he fights for gerbil rights all around the world.

13 Toxic Talents: Hollywood’s Worst Polluters
America By Eileen Jones
Everybody complains about celebrities, but nobody does anything about them. People, it’s time to stop fretting about whether we’re a celebrity-obsessed culture—we are, we have been, we’re going to be—and instead take practical steps to clean up the celebrity-obsessed culture we’ve got...

 
 
 

    MAIN    |    RUSSIA    |    WAR NERD     |    [SIC!]    |    BAR-DAK    |    THE VAULT    |    ABOUT US    |    RSS

© "the eXile". Tel.: +7 (495) 623-3565, fax: +7 (495) 623-5442
E-mail: office@exile.ru